Thursday, September 30, 2010

The Middle of Somewhere


I stole the name of my favorite bar in Mondulkiri, Cambodia, for the title of a post just published on the Sterling College blog about the hum of activity up here in northern Vermont. Here's an excerpt, with a link:

Looking at a map of New England, Sterling College might seem as if it’s in the middle of nowhere. In recent years, however, this rural corner of Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom has become the center of an energetic movement focused on the nexus of sustainable agriculture and strong local community.

Local businesses are thriving, new non-profit organizations are opening their doors and the national media is paying attention to Craftsbury and surrounding towns. In the midst of national economic malaise, the new shoots of green growth in northern Vermont are big news...Read More

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Tuesday, December 22, 2009

"I might not drink again."



I find this video absolutely hilarious.

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Saturday, December 12, 2009

Dragons Mekong Semester: Fall 2009


Three months ago I was on a night-bus to Tibet with 13 young men and women I barely knew. Now, I'm alone in Phnom Penh, soaking up the memories, wondering how those same 13 students are doing as they transition home to America.

Cue the Celine Dion, 'cause my middle name is Corny, but - gosh - I miss the Mekong Manatees with all my heart.



A full semester of rugged travel down one of the most powerful and remote rivers in Asia is an epic life experience any way you cut it, but in the company of intellectually and spiritually engaged gap-year students, the journey became even deeper, even more profound.

We did SO much. We learned SO much. We grew SO much.

And we made connections.

Connections between friends on the program, for sure. Connections between cultures and communities, definitely. Connections between students and home-stay families, yes.

But we also made connections between mollusks and the moon, between American consumerism and Chinese dams, between Afghanistan and Laos, between stillness and peace.


Our students now emerge into the world as young adults who are empowered and aware.

We need them. I'm proud of them. And I can't wait to see what they do.

....

Here's a link to more information on the Dragons Mekong Semester.

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Friday, September 05, 2008

Saigon Reflections

The Dragons program in Cambodia is over, and once again I'm writing and editing for Matador, the San Francisco based company that's breaking new frontiers in online travel media.

Here's a link to my most recent blog post on Matador, a reflection on lessons of the past two months and the exciting potential of online travel community:

"Live From The Nirvana Cafe"

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Sunday, August 31, 2008

Crab Fishing, Kep, Cambodia


Check out my guide to Kep and other Cambodian dispatches at Jaunted.com.

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Sunday, August 24, 2008

Tatai River, Cambodia


Contemplating a swim in the Cardamom mountains...

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Sunday, August 17, 2008

Off-Grid In Cambodia


I haven't spent time in front of a computer in almost 2 months and am having the time of my life...could there be a connection?

Rugged beaches in Cambodia are a good antidote to the Matrix, but I miss all the ideas colonizing the wild wild web.

I'll be in SE Asia for a while, trying to balance writing for an online audience with some good old fashioned farming, jungle stomping, pipe-dream real estate speculation and no-language-in-common conversation.

Click on the blog once in a while - there'll be something interesting eventually. Promise.

In the meantime, my friends at Matador are turning it out...

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Friday, June 27, 2008

Dragons in Cambodia


Quick update - this summer I'm leading a program in Cambodia with Where There Be Dragons.

I've just completed 2 weeks of instructor orientation in the beautiful Sierra Nevada mountains and will leave for Cambodia tomorrow.

Here's a link that explains what Dragons is all about.

Here's a link to the the Dragon's Cambodia program.

And, for those hungering for updates while I'm on the road, here's a link to the message board for the Cambodia program, which we'll be updating regularly from the field.

It's a real privilege to work with Dragons, I'm thrilled to return to Cambodia and, though the blogs won't be updated much this summer, I'm also thankful to have a break from computer screens.

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Wednesday, October 24, 2007

TRUTH: Josh Kearns on GDP


Renegade chemist Josh Kearns checks in from somewhere between Kolkata (Calcutta) and Thailand with a dazzling, clear-minded essay about the Gross Domestic Product index and why it shouldn't be used as a proxy to measure economic health or societal well-being.

Or, in other words, why money can't buy happiness.

Josh speaks the truth, y'all. Read on.

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Saturday, August 04, 2007

Cambodia's Lost Coast in Get Lost Magazine



If you see this magazine, buy a copy! The cover shot is from an article on the South Pacific islands of Vanuatu, but inside you'll find my first full-length magazine feature. Ryan's photos are breath-taking and you'll get the low-down on Cambodian frontier islands like Koh Rong, Koh Kong, Koh Sdach and Koh Ta Kiev.

Here's a link to the Get Lost Magazine homepage.

Get Lost! Life's the Ultimate trip.

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Thursday, June 21, 2007

New Article! "Mango Village and the House of OZ" at MatadorTravel.com


Mango Village and the House of OZ is my latest story from the Cambodian Coast Expedition. It describes a journey by long-tail boat to Koh Rong, the island I wrote about in a feature article for Get Lost Magazine and in a Secret Guide on Matador. Both articles are beautifully illustrated with photographs by Ryan Libre, who is now back in Hokkaido, ranging in Daistetsuzan National Park.

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Sunday, June 17, 2007

G. Frank Oatman Jr. on Robert McNamara

A few years ago I met Robert McNamara, former Secretary of Defense and World Bank President, an architect of both the firebombing of Japan and the Vietnam War. McNamara is a very old man now, and has devoted the last years of his life to explaining his actions.

A few months ago, in Cambodia, I wrote an article called "Accountability," in which I struggled to come to terms with American responsibility for the Cambodian genocide and, more broadly, with the question of how well-meaning men can commit horrible, irrational acts of destruction. "Accountability" is one of my most heartfelt pieces of writing. It was pretty well received and got translated into Italian and published in Milan.

Today I got an e-mail from Frank Oatman, a family friend who led my tour to Bhutan. Mr. Oatman is a naturalist, a poet, a former professor, a former soldier and a role model of mine. As it turns out, he also has some compelling insights into the question of accountibility for men like McNamara, and the consequences of political deception and American arrogance.

With Mr. Oatman's kind permission, I'm copying his e-mail to me below. I hope you read it. For those who haven't read my original "Accountibility" piece, here is the link: READ Accountibility

I'd love to hear more opinions. Comments are especially welcome on this post.



"Hi Tim,

Finally got around to reading your article from Cambodia in 'Rucksackwanderer.'

Very good -- and affective that it was written in and from Cambodia, where the direct results of American arrogance and willfulness are so clear.

I concur with your conclusions. As with your doubts about what good prosecuting such losers and/or ill-advisors to governments really does.

I too met McNamara -- via my cousin Lyndon Johnson, when McNamara was serving the Johnson administration and I was a lowly First Lieutenant in the US Army, getting radicalized by top-secret briefing papers on VietNam, which the General for whom I was working made sure I saw.

It was clear in those papers (and to General McKee himself, I think, who wanted me to see them) that McNamara and the Defense Department, indeed the entire American administration of my sad Cousin, were systematically and intentionally, consciously deceiving the American people and (I think) to some degree as well the American Congress.

So don't be too soft, however much a gentleman he came across to you in college, on McNamara. He and my cousin the President knew what they were doing, I can tell you categorically and with certainity from the top-secret government documents I was seeing in mid-l960's).

His greatest criminality (as my own Cousin's) was the subversion of the American constitution and the most basic tenents of democracy. We cannot sustain a real democracy in this country, in any country, unless the electorate (and their duly elected representatives) are honestly and correctly informed.

The lies of that administration are repeated in nearly exact ways by the present Bush administration. Such deception of the electrorate is what, ultimately, allows for such disgraces (and, yes, war crimes) as illegally bombing Cambodia, invading Iraq under totally false pretenses, aiding the Contras, etc., etc., etc.

I tried to read McNamara's book, largely a justification of his actions while in government. I was finally disgusted by it and didn't, couldn't finish. He remains a liar, a deceiver -- sadly, I feel, of himself as well as of others.

You met, Tim, a true evil-doer."

- G Frank Oatman Jr.

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Thursday, April 26, 2007

Birds at the Feeder, Magazine in Milan

It's a blue sky spring day here in Kingdom country and I'm drenched in sun, typing on the porch, chickadees at the feeder and a partridge just thrummed. Chittering squirrels.

My essay "Accountibility" has been translated into Italian and published in the magazine Permalink, which you can download as a pdf here. The original English version is on rucksackwanderer.com, at this link.

I'm busy making changes to rucksackwanderer.com so that it will look OK in the Internet Explorer web browser. If you still use Internet Explorer, switch to Firefox. It's better.

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Tuesday, March 20, 2007

New Article! Cambodian Homecoming at the Common Language Project

It's been a month of mud and sky and vegetable gardens, with little time at Internet cafes. Some of the stories Ryan and I were working on in Cambodia are finally bearing fruit. Our piece about a Cambodian refugee returning home to his native village after 35 years in Providence, Rhode Island is featured at the Common Language Project. Click Here to read the piece and check out Ryan's terrific photos.

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Saturday, February 24, 2007

Anlong Veng Border Crossing

Sometimes when you start moving it's hard to stop - Ryan and I had planned to ease our way across NE Thailand, but yesterday we just kept catching buses until one dropped us in Chiang Mai at 4 in the morning.

We crossed into Thailand from Anlong Veng, where Pol Pot died of old age. There isn't much information about this crossing available online - so here are a few tips.

First off - the crossing is about 16 kilometers North of town on top of a ridge. The road is in great shape, new pavement, built by the Thais. A fair moto-price would be around $3 or 100 baht. The last bit is a steep climb.

A new border post on the main road is not yet finished - for now immigration is on a dirt track. This is the quietest border I've ever crossed. No touts, no beggars, nothing but a couple of sheds and chirping birds. No onward transportation either, which was a somewhat disconcerting surprise. Apparently pick-up taxis are around sometimes, but we ended up getting a ride from the Thai immigration officer.

Pol Pot's old house is up near the border, but my guide told me that he really lived 10 km inside Thailand, a fact which just about everyone has an interest in keeping hush-hush.

Brak Sareth is an Anlong Veng moto-driver who speaks excellent English. His phone number is 012-182-0503.

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Wednesday, February 21, 2007

"The Beauty of Compassion" - New article at Matador Travel

The Beauty of Compassion is a profile of a grassroots NGO in Sihanoukville, Cambodia. It's my first contribution to Matadortravel.com, an online community of passionate travelers.

"The Beauty of Compassion"

A muscular man without legs drags himself down a beach. He stops to rest in the shade of a beach umbrella and lights a cigarette from a pack of Marlboros, using messily amputated fingers.

Behind the beggar, a young woman in a red bikini reclines on a pillowed beach chair, sipping from a tall draft of Anchor beer. Before long she finishes her beer, gets up, walks past the legless man, goes into a shed with computers and types out an e-mail to her friend back home. “Cambodia is wonderful,“ she writes. “We’re all having the BEST time!”
……

Welcome to “Snookyville,” Cambodia’s beach boom town, where sex is cheap, beer is cheaper and property values have sky-rocketed in the past few years. Most people come to Sihanoukville for one of two reasons – to relax and have a good time, or to make money. Doing either of these things well in a country as lawless as Cambodia necessitates - how shall I put this - a certain tunnel vision.

To fully appreciate Sihanoukville’s sunny skies, mango smoothies, cheap drugs, twinkling blue waters, fresh seafood or teenage prostitutes requires the remarkable ability to tune out desperate poverty and social injustice. Unless you’re one of the poor people, of course, in which case you’re no doubt preoccupied with trying to feed your family and send your kids to school.

But wait. There’s a catch.

The thing is, the young woman typing that e-mail was right – Cambodia really is a place of wonders. Focus too hard on the ugliness, and you risk succumbing to an equally dangerous form of tunnel vision, going numb to the possibility of beauty.

Continue Reading "The Beauty of Compassion

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Sunday, February 18, 2007

"My Heart is Very Tired - New Lost Coast Chapter!"


"My Heart is Very Tired" is the newest addition to the Lost coast project. The story features a young woman named Socheat who Ryan and I met in Koh Kong, and Socheat's mother, one of the few educated Cambodians to survive the Khmer Rouge period.

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Friday, February 16, 2007

Free Wireless Internet in Siem Reap Cambodia

Here are three places with free wireless in Siem Reap.

- Two Dragons Guesthouse - clean but slightly pricey rooms with a tasty but slightly pricey restaurant. Just off Wat Bo road next to Home Sweet Home Guesthouse. Two Dragons is run by Gordon, the mastermind of TalesofAsia.com.

- The Singing Tree Cafe - a community center and family friendly garden restaurant, also just off Wat Bo one block up from the Butterfly Garden. The Singing Tree has yoga and meditation workshops, great healthy food and a lounge upstairs with 55 pillows and a whole library of intriguing movies - lots of documentaries. But the wireless didn't work for me yesterday.

- The Blue Pumpkin - White walls, white cushions, white chairs, white tables, white flowers in white vases on the white tables - the Blue Pumpkin wouldn't be out of place in Miami or Milan. The food is wicked expensive but pretty tasty and there are plenty of outlets for your computer. Find the Pumpkin downtown near the Old Market.

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Thursday, February 15, 2007

"I'm on vacation"

Haiti.

“I don’t want to see poverty,” acknowledged Helen Murphy, 66, of St. Paul, who was shopping in the tourist market one morning. “I’m on vacation. I don’t want to think that these people don’t have enough to eat.”

The above quote is from a revealing article in the NYT this morning about tourism in Haiti - that's right, Haiti, the same country where UN troops are battling gangsters in fetid slums. Tourism in Haiti, for the moment, means heavily guarded resorts that cater to cruise ships.

Enjoying your stay in a desperately poor country like Haiti or Cambodia necessitates a sort of callous tunnel vision. It's obscene to sip wine in an expensive restaurant while children pick through garbage on the street outside. Still, tourism deserves a lot of credit for enabling Cambodians to build a better life. Poor countries need money. Tourists bring money. But man, it sure is ugly sometimes.

I've been giving a lot of thought to this issue lately - a soon-to-be-published article on matadortravel.com will explore it in more depth. Can anyone suggest authors who confront the "holiday in hell" problem head on?

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Monday, February 12, 2007

Goodbye Sihanoukville, Hello Siem Reap

The new Sihanoukville Airport is starting service between Siem Reap and the coast, but I'm still on a bus budget. Phnom Penh tonight, then on to Siem Reap tomorrow, where I'll once again reunite with Ryan.

The Cambodia's Lost Coast page is looking hot on my new website. Take a look!

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